- Written by CADnoob
- Category: Reviews
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Space... the final frontier... Space Mouse...like the cutest thing ever!
Professional need professional tools. 3DCONNEXION has created such a thing for the CAD monkies out there and it is called the SpaceMouse.
Through fantastic fortune (big thanks to Unprofessional Engineering, Autodesk University and 3Dconnexion) I have came into possession of 3DConnexion's SpaceMouse Wireless Kit. So join me won't you please as I delve into the world of professional CAD peripherals and review 3DCONNEXION's SpaceMouse Wireless Kit.
First, a note on my fervor for trackballs. I love playing with my balls (some puns are easier than others) and I still do. So understand that this has not shifted my position on trackballs. I still use my trackball and that plan isn't changing. Having said that, I always keep an ole trusty mouse around and connected. The reason for this is varied; I occasionally like to use it and the other big thing I keep it for is if another user comes to my station. I'm part of a service group so I frequently deal with individuals who I train and receive feedback from so it is there for them when they get in the 'driver's seat.' The #1 reason I keep a mouse around connected to my workstation is so that I don't have to hear I.T. complain about working on my computer.
So what is a SpaceMouse Wireless kit?
Fundamentally its a bundle of 3DConnexion's SpaceMouse (wireless) and their recently released CadMouse (wireless). I believe you can purchase the pieces individually so if only one of these devices strikes your fancy you may be able to purchase it individually.
The kit comes with everything pictured below as well as a charging cord. There is only one charging cord in the package but given that the SpaceMouse is supposed to be able to run for a month between recharges you should have plenty of time to move the cable to the other device... If you are like me, you might need to buy another cable. These appear to be the standard micro USB cables, so if you have purchased any personal electrical device in the last 5 years you probably have a few of these cables hanging around. This is really my first week of using the device day in day out so I can't speak to the experienced battery life yet but i will follow up in the future if it deviates from the advertised battery life (1 month for the SpaceMouse and 2 months for the CadMouse).
So upon opening the box you will be looking at a mouse pad (black square pictured above). I haven't enjoyed using a mouse pad in a long time. I haven't had one on my desk since the world switched to the optical/laser mouse. So immediately in my mind I'm thinking this is a waste. It all seems packaged nice. The devices both come with their own zippered carrying cases (pictured above). They seem fairly robust and look as though they would weather traveling well for a while. Fortunately/Unfortunately I'm out of the traveling cycle these days so I probably won't get much use out of them.
One of the cool things is that there is a Single USB.. dongle (I guess that's the word the cool kids are using). 3DConnexion call this its Universal Receiver (pictured above). This is nice because it's only 1 USB slot for two devices.
Overall I love the design of these. They look fantastic and feel like they have a very solid construction. Also I'm a sucker for that brushed steel look high-contrasted with black. I have not tore into the devices to see what quality switches they are using but the sound and fell like quality. (for giggles this is a teardown of a spacemouse)
Going forward i'm going to review the pieces separately.
As I mentioned earlier, i'm not a user of mouse pads. Even though the pad is not the most important part of the puzzle, in this case, it makes itself important. The mouse without the pad has a fine performance, but 3DCONNEXION have really put together something nice with this pad and together with the mouse, its amazing. I'm not going to cover its specs, you can check out their website for that stuff. The best part about this pad is that IT DOES NOT MOVE or SLIDE! Where you put it is where it stays! This solves one of my biggest pet peeves with mouse use. Nothing is as aggravating as a mouse pad bunching up on the side while you are trying your level best to shoot a person in the face only to have your shot ruined and the subsequent smack talking after you get fragged because you were taking time to straighten a stupid mouse pad. ( for those playing along at home, I'm not talking about actual shooting but online gaming). So gamers (or anyone else for that matter) if you are tired of a moving mouse pads you owe it to yourself to check this thing out!
On to the Mouse:
So outwardly it's just a run of the mill mouse (this coming from a trackball guy). I don't mean this in a bad sense, I mean when you look at it you don't think "if i feed it past midnight i might end life as we know it." It does have a few extra buttons but they didn't go overboard with it. I personally think it's got a look of elegance and professionalism. So the number one thing I like about this mouse it that it moves like butter! By this I mean it's smoother than a pastor running game in a seedy bar. At first use, it made me really think about ditching the trackball (only for a second though). It is that good! It slides so effortlessly and smooth, you have to check your six to make sure Barry White is not behind you disrobing. Granted I haven't been a consumer of computer mice for a while so I could have just missed the wave of awesome mice. That said, if you spend significant amount of time banging on a computer you owe it to yourself to at least try the feel of the CadMouse in conjunction with its mouse pad. I won't get too much into the specifics, you can check out 3Dconnexions spec for this device. It's got 3 finger buttons a clickable scroll wheel, two side buttons (the usual forward, backward) and one menu button. It has three modes of connectivity (really only two in my book) You can leave it plugged into the USB cable (I don't count this one but i guess if you are really keeping score it is kinda a unique ability) The menu button is packing as it can be used to activate several things so if you are looking for more buttons consider what this menu brings. Below are pictures of the menu; one activated in AutoCAD and the other activated in Excel.
Of note: One thing I had to change was 'smart scrolling.' It mimics a free wheel scroll and for my taste it had to go. I get a little more into customization later.
One to the SpaceMouse:
I'm no stranger to seeing the SpaceMouse. My local reseller has one version these on every desk in their office. They of course have the ones that look like a chaise lounge mixed with spaceship controler (SpaceMouse Enterprise). So I've been around them but I have never used one to any meaningful extent. My model is the much more simplistic version of it; the SpaceMouse Wireless. When I first strapped in, it was a bit of a bugger to get in the proper mind set. The device has 6 degrees of movement in a single control and honestly my brain was not having it at first. So you need to know, there isn't much in the way of an intuitional use of it. It's not too difficult to get to the point where you can use it, but if you casually look at a demo in a store, it's going to seem like it's outside of your grasp. It took me a couple hours of use before I had a real sense of confidence with it. This is not said to discourage you but to set you up with realistic expectations. So as far as a review in a comparative sense, it's not possible. I have never used a device like it before. I have used joysticks before; even fancy ones with things like a twisty handle but this is a critter all its own. I really enjoy using it to navigate and I'm really looking forward to adopting it use in my workflows. Is it a must have? I cant say as much right now, but thats because its a 'new' and unique device to me and there are issues with the software (personal) that make me hesitant. In other words its uniqueness is both its strength and weakness. I'll get into more of this when I get into its support software.
One really cool thing that this device can allow is for you to navigate all your 3D worlds similarly. Some programs use different key combinations and click to manipulate their world but with the space mouse you can customize them so they all behave the same way with the SpaceMouse. For example the scroll wheel zoom in Fusion 360 is backwards from AutoCAD, if I were to solely adopt the SpaceMouse they could be set to zoom using the same motion on the cap.
Currently its allure is enough for me to keep using it. I like to use it to navigate, but it's running against some tough muscle memory I have developed using the SHIFT+SCROLL BUTTON to navigate the 3D world. In other words, it's solving a problem I don't have. That said it does solve that problem and it does so very well and it has the value added features of additional buttons and a similar radial menu like the mouse. I like the way it navigates (as opposed to the SHIFT+SCROLL BUTTON method) and it too feels like a real solid device. As an added bonus it looks really cool sitting there on my desk too (I know, never the shallow one. Dont hate). It has some really cool lights that impress when someone asks about the device.
One to the support software:
Unfortunately the is where the love fest ends. There is nothing inherently wrong with the drivers/support software, but what it's missing is what has got into my craw. First let me discuss what it does well... basically it does everything well.
In addition to the drives it installs a few bell a whistles.
In addition to the ones pictured above there are more in the program menu so be sure to check the out too. The most important thing it offers is trainer. DO NOT OVER LOOK THIS (unless you already have a good grasp of the device). The trainer takes you through the breakdown of the axis of the device and how it manipulates objects. It's got a great explainer video and then some practice games. Do this before diving into the use of this device. It can even evaluate your mastery of the device. Definitely check this out first.
After you are familiar with the general idea of the device there are a couple toss in manipulators. I would go use the Demo first to get an idea about the collaboration of your mouse and the SpaceMouse. In it you 'assemble' what appears to be a landing gear assembly. After that you can check out the other software thats included. Aside from the jet, box and chicken manipulators, there is a collage maker and a file viewer (.3dm, .fbx, .obj, .stl). The collage maker seems like fun and i'll have to give it a another go next time I need to make a collage. The view is also fun though my guess is that if you purchased the space mouse you probably have the programs that can generate the files that the view can view. There is also a 3D puzzle that looks fun. it may replace my use of freecell in the arena of time killing.
So here is where I get critical. It’s not a device thats on everyones desk in all use applications. So if you have an application you would like to use it on you have to hope it's provided with the software. There are ways to customize the device and its setting, but it seems like this is where they skimped on the design. With such seeming fine quality in hardware design, I would have liked to see the same robustness applied to their software. Its limited in what it can customize. (if I am mistaken in this please let me know) One very slick thing it does it that it recognizes the program that has focus of the computer and it automatically puts you into the customization for that program (when you are editing the buttons). This is very cool and a bit of a pain in the ass. In other words if you wanna edit the way it operates in AutoCAD you have to have AutoCAD running and then the window on top of it. Another very cool thing it allows for is the exportation and importation of the settings. So if you are desk hoping you settings can hop with you… if you copy them.
Something to consider if your CAD software is browser based (Onshape, TinkerCAD, etc.) this devices is limited to the minimal features available to the browser.
Out of the box there is a limited amount of software that the device works with. If you are curious as to what it supports you can look here. This is basically the crossroads where my new romance stopped. The power and applicability of this device would seem to me far more reaching than the customization seems to allow. Its not that the device can't handle it, but that the software isn't up to snuff of letting you customize it for software outside of what is supported (at least from a noobs surface reading). Its as if you have been given Wonka's magic elevator that can go anywhere, but you can only take it to the local general store or the pharmacy. I mean come the fuck on, who does this! Don't strangle the potential. I did some searching and it looks like it can be setup with several applications by editing .xml files, but this is far from the answer I would like to see in such a otherwise slick device. But i digress, I'm sure there is a reason, I just can't see it. I would love to use the device in My Digital Audio Workstation, but it looks like it limited to just programming the buttons in that arena...
Pound for pound Id say the SpaceMouse Wireless Kit is worth every bit of its retail price (if the software you use is compatable). The mouse alone (with pad) could almost make it worth that. If you are in the market for a mouse and might be able to use the SpaceMouse, I’d say pull the trigger on the SpaceMouse Wireless Kit. If you are curious about the space mouse and feel like you could use a little boost in your productivity this might just give you the edge you are looking for. I wouldn't say it does out of the box cause it’s got a learning curve, though it’s not to bad. With a little time invested in it, it very well may make the difference to help you be the better drafter. There is always the risk of getting one of these peripherals only to let it languish, so I'll be sure to follow up on my use of the device. Right now (despite my disappointment in being able to customize it in other programs) I'm still loving it and am working to fully integrate it into my workflows. And I mean, come on... no one else in this office has a peripheral as cool as this!
There you have it my noob review of the SpaceMouse Wireless Kit. I give it a dont swipe left.
- Written by CADnoob
- Category: Tips, Tricks & Nonsense
- Hits: 228
In the course of usual grunt work of a CAD monkey, you are likely to run across old drawing files. When I say files I'm not talking about computer files, but good-ole hard copies. Many blueprints, drawings and drafting files are still out there in hard-copy formats. Some of these hard-copy formats have fared better than others. Occasionally one of the old drawing will need to be referenced or re-created and the original is severely degraded. Time has treated some of these wonderful old drawing poorly and this is the stage for today's play: 'The Struggle of Recovering Scanned Drawings'. .. a Drama in two parts... or maybe three parts..
This is not an exhaustive look or an examination of best practices for cleaning up scanned drawings. Its just one way I have found to turn poor quality drawing into usable documents again. I will say i have seen some pretty fancy things that can be done with programs like Autodesk Raster Design, so dont necesarily commit to this method until you have explored other options out there.
Most drawings are such that a drastic recovery process isn't necessary as the information is legible to a sufficient degree. This process isn't meant for every old digitized drawing you run across. This process should be left up those drawings that are in such bad shape that they have to be recovered or that the content is so critical that you have just have to have recovered. What I'm getting at here is that this is a semi intensive process and you have to balance time invested against the possible result. Not all drawing can be recovered... some times they are just a loss. I realize there are probably better ways to do this and that there are companies that do this sort of thing professionally, but I'm a one man wrecking crew on a negative shoe string budget. In short this is my way of 'fucking this chicken'.
So if you are lucky, you are not the one digging these things out of where ever they have been gathering dust. If you are doing the digging, be careful... these things may not have been touched since before the time polio was eradicated. I'm joking of course but it is an interesting thing to come across hand drawn plans from the time of your parents birth. If you are the one who has the original hard copy great! If not, some of the below options may not be available to you.
First step is to get the file digitized. Scan it at a reasonable DPI. Generally the higher DPI the better, but eventually you don't get any "better" information from a drawing the higher the resolution. I like to see DPI of 300 to 600. Most of the time I can get away with 300.
So the next big question is weather or not to go with black and white or color. For this process I have found better results Starting with color drawings.
Once you have the drawing scanned, or some other way digitized, the dirty work can begin. For my purposes I use Gimp. (https://www.gimp.org/) Its free but check the user agreement for you particular circumstances and uses. This job could be done with Photoshop as well or any other professional raster editing software. The general idea of building a compilation drawing made from different layers can be achieve on many platforms. So if you have a preferred program which can do this, go nuts. The steps may be a little different per program but the main idea is not program specific.
First Act: I'm going to show you how this works in the case the you are sent a Black and White PDF as this is probably what you will more than likely encounter. B&W PDF doesn't always have good results... it just the nature of B&W. To make this exciting I have also got a skewed and mirrored drawing. Basically im assuming they turned the job of scanning this over to an intern who is one night of binge drinking away from a lower tier of IQ classification.
1: Open the file using Gimp
Once the program opens you will be prompted with a PDF conversion window. Click on import to bring it in.
2: If you dont care about mirroring you can skip forward to step 3. So how do you correct a mirrored scanned drawing in gimp? You simply got to IMAGE>TRANSFORM>FLIP HORIZONTALLY.
Sometimes the old drawings were treated like transparency drawings. In other words they intentionally mirror the drawings and then flip them over and draw additional information on them. It was a pretty clever way to rev drawings and reuse drawing content, but these things don't translate well to digitization so you actually have to feed them in backwards and then mirror it afterwards. Many scanner have the ability to make this adjustment internally, but i'm assuming the worst here.
There is also a tool on the tool palette that can flip but i'll leave that up to the overachievers to find.
3: If you dont care about de skewing you can skip forward to step 4. How do you fix a skewed drawing in gimp? Due to a bug in gimp we will take a roundabout method of solving this issue. First what we need to do is to open the layers dialog. This is done by clicking on WINDOWS>DOCKABLE DIALOGS>LAYERS.
Next you need to create a layer the we will use to Judge the degree to which we need to 'un-skew' the bluprint.
After that we will change our color so that we use a stark color in contrast with the scanned flat file. You do this by clicking on the color swatch at the bottom of the tools.
Next we will draw a horizontal line on our new layer. Make sure you click the new layer in the layer dialog box. We will use the pencil from the tools. To the best of your ability start by clicking the pencil are the top corner of the title block or drawing frame. Next press and hold CNTRL + SHFT. Holding down those button will force a straight line. Make the line as long as the Title block or drawing border line.
Next part is where the roundabout-ness comes in. There is a bug in gimp which brings the rotated image to to top of the layer stack so we are going to rotate our line to determine the amount of rotation that will need to be applied to our drawing. So we will initiate the rotate command on our line layer.
Make sure you have the Line layer selected. Initiate the rotate command from the tools. This will put a mesh over the drawing area. In the center is a circular cross-hair. Place this at the point of rotation.
Zoom into the other end of you line and apply a rotation until the rotated line is in line with your drawings title block. At this point take note of the degree of rotation in the dialog. Cancel the operation.
Next you will select the actual drawing layer and then apply the negative of the rotation angle. Initial the rotate command and place the cross hair in the same location as last time and the rotate by the opposite amount that the line would have been rotated. I'm my case my line would have been rotated by 30 so to un-skew the drawing i’ll have to rotate it by -30.
You may have to play around to get your numbers right but thats the general process using gimp. After all this is done delete the line layer as we will not need it any further.
Next we will clip the drawing as rotating left some empty space in the image canvas. So we will go to the selection tool and draw a square around the relevant space around the drawing. Once we have a good selection we will crop by going to IMAGE>CROP TO SELECTION.
4: Getting to the nitty gritty of cleaning a drawing.
What you will need to do now is create three separate layers in your layers dialog. Right click to get the menu. The reason you create three is that you will create a composite of two of those layers and the third one is there as backup if you screw up the others along the way.
The general idea here is that you can adjust the values of a particular drawing to gain clarity in some parts of drawing but often this comes at the cost of obscuring others. So the end goal here is to take advantage of these different adjustments and then create a composite by cutting away ‘bad’ parts of one adjustment revealing the layers underneath which are from a better adjustment.
I will set the first contrast as the contrast which cleans up the border and darker parts most. The second contrast adjustment will focus on the other parts of the drawing which will make the outer darker parts of the drawing worse. Once these contrasts are done we will erase the bad parts of contrast 2 which will reveal the good parts of 1.
Next rename your layers. I tend to rename the according to what i’ll be doing to them. In this case i’ll be renaming them to contrast 1 and contrast 2.
After they are renamed, turn off the visibility of the other two layers to isolate the layer that you will be adjusting first.
Make sure your intended layer is selected in the layer dialog and then initial the contrast command by going to COLORS>BRIGHTNESS-CONTRAST.
At this part you will just have to play with the setting until you find something that works with your particular drawing. In this example I’m focusing on the outer parts. In the lower outlined redbox you can see an area that I’m focusing on to make it as ‘clear’ as i can. Once you are satisfied click ok.
You will next repeat these step on the next layer. Be sure to select the second layer and turn it on by click the eye. Initiate the contrast command and play with it to highlight the other parts of the drawing. Once you are satisfied with this click ok.
Now we are going to get into the business of erasing. Select eraser from the tools We will also want to be able to change our eraser setting so we will open a tool options dialog. WINDOWS>TOOL OPTIONS
We need to remember that we now want both our contrasted layers set to visible and we want to make sure our top layer is selected. This is the layer we will be erasing from.
You can adjust the brush size and type and other options. THe more you play with the program the more you can take advantages of the options available. For simplicity i want a eraser with a fuzzy brush. It looks like a circle that fades in as opposed to just a circle. This is some time referred to as feathering.
You can also adjust the brush size and depending on you drawing size and the ‘cleaning’ you will be doing you will want different size brushes. All these changes are made in the Tool Options Dialog box.
Next you go about the business of guess and check and erasing. Often you will encounter parts that look better before erasing so don't be afraid to use the undo command and redo the erasing. Frequently i will use the eraser for cleaning around ‘delicate’ elements of the drawing and I will use the SELECT tool and just delete the selection (see below). Either way you are removing parts of the top layer to reveal the layer beneath.
For a Before and after see the next image. This image might not be the best to illustrate as it’s not too bad of an image but one can still see the difference between the two and it serves to illustrate the general idea.
As I indicated earlier you can get better results if you work from a color drawing. The end result will be a black and white drawing but often the “color” is only the color of the paper which theoretically should be white any way.
The process is the same except initially you will work to turn the color image to grayscale. This is done by going to COLORS>DESATURATE.
In the desaturate there are some options you can play with. Occasionally i’ll make duplicates of the color image and then use the different values in the desaturate dialogue on different layers to start the changing of the layers.
Next create the layers just as had been done in the previous example.
As was done on the previous example run the contrast command on the first contrast layer. Since this version was created using an image there is a larger variation of of colors available to us so we can apply different color changing methods methods. I choose to alter the curve though i could have probably achieved similar results adjusting threshold or one of the other color adjusting tools. To adjust the the curves got to COLOR>CURVES. Make sure your curve layer is selected.
Below is an example of the setting i used for this file. Your setting will depend on the image you start with. Just Grab the lien and make adjustments and watch what happens to the image.
Next up just start erasing as was done in the previous example. Remember to select the top layer so that when you erase the layer beneath it is revealed. You will notice a stark difference between the color image and the B&W image in the erasing example below.
NOTE: If you find that you are not erasing to the layer beneath you may need to add the alpha channel to each one of your layers. If this is happening to you do this for every layer you have. Right click on the drawing the go to LAYER>TRANSPARENCY>ADD ALPHA CHANNEL.
So that's the process I have had some success using. As mentioned there may be better ones out there and if you find them by all means use them. It's a relatively intensive process so it shouldn't be done to every drawing. Time wise it's quicker than tracing and re- creating a drawing. I don't have a version of something like Raster Design so i can't compare the time difference between this and that, but if you are limited in your options this method may be what you need to get you through you project.
Happy Document Recovering.
- Written by CADnoob
- Category: Tips, Tricks & Nonsense
- Hits: 268
Ok, so here is an example where volunteering in the forums is paying dividends. I frequently visit the forums to try to help others and learn about the wonderful world of CAD. A question came through on a topic that i had never heard about (no surprise there). It was the nature of the content of the question which was amazing. They were asking about something called Core Console.
WTF is Core Console..
So I did some quick Googling and there is some info out there but not as much as I would have hoped. The following two articles are the ones I found most useful. (cadtips, Through the interface) So what is the Core Console, its basically AutoCAD stripped naked of a UI (user interface). To most, this seems like a step backwards, but to those geeks out there who like playing in a command line as much as they like playing with their selves, this is an awesome portal into nerd-dom. From what I gathered this is only 'recently' available as of 2013. So if you are rocking it old school you may have to wait until you upgrade to play with this toy.
If the potential of this still escapes you, let me put it another way. You can run scripts on drawings without ever opening AutoCAD. It allows for Batch Processing files without ever clicking on the AutoCAD icon.
mind = blown
This knowledge couldnt have come at a better time. Im staring at a heaping pile of drawings that I need to purge the regapps out of. This is all i need to do to these drawing, so once this is done i cand move them on to thier next stage in thier little DWG life. This is as clear cut an example as i could ever need to apply batch processing.
I used the previsously mentioned links as a go by. Def check them out but what i did looked like the following.
First: I created two blank txt files in the directory of the drawings I was working on.
You can open the folder in file explorer and right click on an empty space and create two new text documents. You will need to change the file extensions of these text documents to something else. If you do not know how to do this and you are looking to use core console, this is likely going to be a bumpy ride. If you cant see your file extensions you can google to find out how or follow a walk-through like this.
So If you can see the file extentiosn you need to change one of .txt to a .scr and the other .txt to a .bat. This should also change the Icon for these files.
Bat files are old school and if you are into automating things and dont know about bat files, you will want to look into them further. The .scr is a file extension for AutoCAD scripts.
Now we need to put stuff into these files. My personal favorite program for this is notepad. Its simple clean and uncomplicated. You can try right clicking and see if the edit option is available for you. You can also try the 'open with' option if that is a possibility as well and then select notepad. Or you can oipen note pad first and use its open command... just get to a place that you can edit the files.
Once inside the bat file, you will put the information which will handle the batch. The Core console its self is not a batch processor. The .bat file will be the item handling the batch aspect of the whole deal. So going by the examples in the batch file i put the following text:
|FOR %%F IN ("C:\MYDRAWINGPATH\*.dwg") DO "C:\AUTOCADCORECONSOLEPATH\accoreconsole.EXE" /i "%%F" /s "C:\AUTOCADSCRIPTPATH\SCRIPT.scr"|
Ok so a few things. You are going to need to know where your drawings are and they need to all be in the same folder. Next locate the AutoCAD core console exe file. I did this by opening windows explorer and just doing a search. You can copy the path from the explorer path bar or from property etc.
And lastly you need to know the path location of the .scr file. If you need a little more break down of these parts and pieces and what going on, go to the cad tips link above. Skip down to the lower part of the article and there is an excellent image giving the description of what each section of the bat string is up to.
Ok. So assuming all is well in the bat file arena (likely it wont be as mine sure wasnt the first time through) the next part of the puzzle is the scr file.
So the scr file is super easy (famous last words). I'm not really experienced with scr files but they look like you basically put in the commands as though you were typing them in AutoCAD. One key take away is that you have to leave a blank line to indicate the enter command. So the following example adds a line and then a circle. Notice the blank to indicate "enter"
Ok so a batch of line-circle commands aren't that useful (... or is it..) but its a good way to practice implementing some of these commands via core console. I created a practice bat file just to play. That bat file looked more like the suggestions that are provided when you start up core console. You just type in the path to core console and then the "/i" and then file the file including path and then the "/s" and then the script and location. I would recommend doing something similar to get to know the tools if you are a noob like me. It was during this playing that i stumbled on a crucial step in the process.
Your script will not run if it is not in a trusted location or if it is not a trusted file. The way you will get past this will vary on which release of AutoCAD you are using. I imagine its fairly similar between releases as you will likely go into OPTIONS and the SYSTEM and then SECURITY, but past that i don't know what has changed for each version of software. I was getting the warning of message that said: "File load canceled" and that was because i had the security settings set to display a warning message and this couldn't happen so the script would load.
Ok so on to the real work. My true goal is to purge the regapps out of several drawings so my final work horse scrip was:
; end script file
This interface doesn't show it that well but its the command "-purge" then the next line is "r" for regapps and the next line is blank for enter (thats accepting the default option of all apps in the command) then the next line is "n" for no. After that the next line is "qsave" and then the next linke is blank for enter again. The semicolon denotes a comment and is not processed.
Once thats done, just run your .bat file and it will run this script on every dwg in the directory. Now thats bad ass! All files processed in a fraction of the time with almost no effort on my part. This is a time saving way to automate AutoCAD and unleash the program with out even opening it. no go forth and core console.